When I arrived in Milan to study at the IED, the first question a japanese classmate asked me wasn’t what my name was, nor where I came from, but: what is your style? I sincerely thought that was a silly… snob and firvoulous question!
Anyway, this question was inside me and as time went by it grew big like an avalnche.
In the last 20 years clothing consumption has grown over 500%, and the fashion industry is only behind the oil, when it comes to polution and enviromental impact. The fast fashion responsable for the increase of the slave workers with no rights, give us the opportunity to have any clothes we want with a very low price! And if we have our wardrobes full of clothes that not combine together and we don’t use, this is not a problem, we can throw them away with no guilt or even donate them, we can’t do anything but contribute to the pollution of other countries like Haiti, with our 50/60$ floor cloths.
Yes, I know, my last blog used to call Stylist low cost and its purpose was to create beautiful looks combining H&M with Zara. And here it is my answer, my style is: illusion, disinformation, victimization and laziness.
Our unconscious apocalyptic anxiety, all this fear of the future, the destruction of the planet, political crisis do nothing but to increase our consumption, we seek immortality by accumulating things and doing shop therapy … and if we don’t have enough money to buy certainties like a house or real quality during our free time, we delude ourselves with the satisfaction of a new look, each week at a very low price.
The documentary movie: “The True Cost” by Andrew Morgan. The story of people who produce our dresses and the environmental impact of the fashion industry.
How to build a personal style?
I believe a therapist is more useful than a stylist on this discovery. Having a style means to shout out to the world who you really are. But do you know yourself so well? It takes time, research and courage. And all this excludes impulsiveness to appeal to all tendencies, style is personal and is reaffirmed with time. This intimate dialogue approaches you to the origin of what you wear too, because you will pursuit beauty and there is no beauty in dresses produced in dangerous stalls of Bangladesh or tissue that pollutes entire communities to be made.
Yes, I know that “true” fashion is really expensive and to be “like the others” give us the feeling of protection, it is that ginger tea, comfortable … and when we come across the sucess, by the way, Iris Apfel’s ressurection, we stand still, with our dumb faces. The success of the Advanced Style makes you smile and sometimes laugh… But, maybe this glass of vodca serves to us all.
To escape the low cost, without getting a loan at the bank, maybe we’ll have to get back to our old seamstress and search for new designers. Yes, it is true, it requires time and lot of will, but, we are not talking about just dressing, it is a trip. We cannot forget that the choice of what we wear it is one of our last liberties.
The post-apocalyptic fashion: darkness and light
The fashion connection with the destruction and rebirth, the post-apocalyptic story is deep and not only economic and social. It was the basis of inspiration for many designers like the post atomic styles of Yohji Yamamoto, Alexander McQueen, Jackie Fraser, Jean Paul Gaultier. Inspiring entire collections as: Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2013/2014 collection, Moschino collection fall – winter 2016-17, or autumn- winter collection 2016-2017 di Philipp Plein, who chose to tell a world inspired by the film Mad Max. Even the controversial parade of Rick Owens, famous for its post-apocalyptic style during Paris Fashion Week in 2016, he made models wear other models as if they were clothes. To complete the revival of futuristic and sculptural dresses, the designer Iris Van Herpen Dutch pioneer of high 3D fashion.
The post-atomic cinema.
The success Mad Max: Fury road brought back to the peak one of the most fascinating movie genres that cinematography has ever created, delirious and rule free: the post-atomic.I won’t talk a lot about the rising and death of this genre (who is really interested can read the book APOCALYPSE ITALIA by M. Sansiveri).I prefer to concentrate on the thousand spectacular and dramaturgical possibilities that the movie offered, with a very modest budget.Anything can happen in the post-apocalyptic: mutant monsters, radioactive deserts, sewage inhabited by all sort of beings. The bomb with its destruction power gave the directors, costume designers and writes the freedom to create, betting everything in creativity and inventiveness. Authors like Castellari, Massacesi, Martino (and their collaborators!) knew how to transform tires into dresses, karts into futuristic cars and abandoned warehouses into mysterious places full of traps. Miller’s movies (Mad Max with Gibson), Escape from New York by Carpenter disposed of resources that Italian authors didn’t have, but they could count on the force that conducted the Italian cinema genres of the past: the idea, the creativity of the art of making a lot with just a few.The post-atomic desert can be represented in wonderful locations, with an Oscar of best picture like Miller did… but, also in an abandoned quarry, because lack of money can limit a lot of things, except for creativity.For me, this represents the real force of the genre: the possibility of each author present, even with a few resource, something personal and unique.
All dresses by Iran Santos
You can find the book Apocalypse Italia by M.Sansiveri, on Thrauma store